CHAPTER 17. SOUTH EAST FRANCE

We have made four trips to SE France, the first in 1985 as Betty is recovering from a broken kneecap (#16). We return in 1986 for a more extensive visit while we are driving around Europe for 90 days in a new VW Jetta. In 1989 we pass thru the area again on our way from Italy (#20) to Paris. The final visit is in 2000 when we go back to Stes. Maries de la Mer for a few days after a cruise to Barcelona and a visit with friends in Quillan, France.

It is the end of May, 1985 as we leave Quillan and drive east and north thru rolling hills covered with vineyards, past Narbonne and stop early in Le Cailar at the Le Sanglier Hotel. It is somewhat run down, but the room is on the ground floor, so Betty doesn’t have to climb stairs with her knee in a splint. We have our in-room snack including strawberries we picked up at a supermarket and cucumbers to juice up our sandwiches.

This morning we drive to Aigues Mortes, a medieval fortified city with it’s walls in excellent condition. We drive beyond, into the far entrance, thru the town, and out the front. Going on to Arles we see many rice paddies and fields of asparagus. The traffic is very heavy in Arles and no street parking is available, so we park in a garage beside the post office and collect mail from poste restante. We scout the Roman ruins, but the walking is too much for Betty so she waits in a park while Glenn has a brief look at the theater and arena. The theater is large and equipped with a wooden stage and theater lights. The arena is in good condition and is now used for bull fights.

We drive around the arena to give Betty a look, then go on to Les Baux where we have lunch at the Michelin three star restaurant Oustau de Baumaniere. It is beautiful and has 10 or 12 occupied outdoor umbrella shaded tables . We don’t feel up to a menu, so order a la carte, having a fish dish, baby leg of lamb en croute, artichoke mousseline, eggplant, and white wine. We also have plates of aperitifs before, and cookies after. It is all we can eat, and delicious.