In mid October of 1987 we come into Portugal from the north after seeing Santiago de Compostela (#19). We enter along with a storm from the Atlantic bringing heavy rain and strong winds, so we drive straight thru to Denis Hotel in Leiria, with overnight stops in Parades, Spain and Esposente, Portugal.
On arrival at Leiria, Glenn finds his passport has been left at the Suave Mar Hotel in Esposente! The Denis Hotel people suggest we contact the Leiria tourist information (I) office; they call the Suave Mar Hotel and have the passport mailed to the Leiria I office, where Glenn picks it up the next day. What great service!
From Leiria we take a day trip to Batalha, Alcobaca, and Nazaré. After days of rain and wind the weather is sunny; how fortunate since Batalha is so photogenic.
The Michelin Green Guide describes Batalha Monastery: It “stands in a green valley, a mass of gables, pinnacles, buttresses, turrets and small columns - the rose gold outpouring of its architecture is one of the masterpieces of Portuguese Gothic and Manueline art.” Alcobaca and its Santa Maria Monastery are nearby; attractions here are the tombs of Inez de Castro and Dom Pedro in the transept.
On the way to Nazaré we stop for lunch at a countryside resort we find in our several year old Michelin Red Guide. There are some people sitting on a bench outside; we ask where the dining room is, and they point to the building. Going in, we find the dining room on a top floor, we sit at an empty table, and are immediately given food and wine. Things seem peculiar, but the food is good. After finishing we ask our server for the bill, and she doesn’t know what we are talking about. We are finally able to pay for the meal down at the first floor office. We decide it had changed from a resort, and is now some kind of institution - we guess a mental hospital!
The return to Nazaré is a disappointment, as we reported earlier. No longer are the picturesque boats on the beach; a new harbor contains the fishing fleet. Some favorite sights are better if not revisited!
From Leiria we drive east thru hilly country with lots of grapes and olives to Tomar and the fortified castle, seat of the former Knights Templar, and in the 1300’s changed to the Knights of Christ. It is an interesting castle to tour, particularly the 12th century Templars Rotunda.
We continue on by the Almoural Castle and thru cork oak tree country to Montemor where it is late and we stay in the not good at all Monte Alenlejeno Hotel, rather than look for a better place.
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
No comments:
Post a Comment